Dusk

Dusk turns to darkness, as they frantically navigate narrow village lanes, driving past thatched roofs of a centuries old settlement, twinkling with lights and lanterns at each door.

Their drive so far has been bumpy and uneventful, punctuated only by the cries of children and adults alike, turning a full 180 degrees to stop and stare.

"Arre, gaadi varti cycle bagh!" ("Hey, look at the cycle on the car!")

...

With one eye on the sky, darkening by the minute, the west still lit with disappearing hues of blue and grey, and the other on the barely discernible road, they forge on, through the maze of criss - cross paths.

They stop and ask for directions, guided only by a name and some rudimentary instructions, hoping and praying for even a vague sign of recognition by one of the locals, but to no avail.

The villagers' faces remain blank, as they stare into the distance and ponder for a few moments, before pointing to the next intersection.

"Pudhe vicharun bagha.." ("Try asking ahead..")

...

The gathering gloom in the air and in their hearts reduces visibility to a few metres. Their hopes of discovering the home-stay start to fade with the last rays of the sun.

As they round the next corner and turn west, while contemplating the search for alternate accomodation, the lane opens out to a huge imposing silhouette.

Two large domes, stark black against dark grey sky preparing for slumber, rise out of the ground, a man made pool framed by tall gangly coconut fronds, guards around a perimeter fence.

They switch off the engine, in deference to the ancient stone structure before them, captivated by the silence and peace. Her voice, a whisper, yet so clear in the surrounding vacuum.

"Hi kuthli zaaga aahe?" ("What place is this?")

...

They alight and tip toe around quietly, soaking in the serenity. A path on one side leads to the beach, a sign, barely visible at this time of night, looms ahead.

From what seems like a afar, a voice calls out to them, welcoming, friendly. The giant of a temple awakens and casts a cursory glance at the new presence. He welcomes the new tourists to his humble abode.

"Pochlo aapan.." ("We've reached..")

...

29.10.16
Diveagar, Dist - Raigad, MH

...

Diveagar is a small fishing village in Raigad District of coastal Maharashtra, approximately 180 km or 5 hours drive from Mumbai. Surrounded by the fishing hamlets of Velas Agar and Bharadkhol, it is ideal for a quiet long weekend away from the city in the months of October to March.

Peaceful and sparsely populated, it is accessible from the Mumbai - Goa Highway, via Mangaon, and features several home-stays and small hotels for accommodation.

We made reservations via Airbnb and stayed at Chet's Groove, a beautiful home-stay with a hammock located in a coconut grove by the beach. The care-taker family is extremely nice and welcoming, and drums up the most delicious Maharashtrian style fish-food.

Tip: For an even more peaceful experience away from other tourists, head to the Kondvil and Aaravi beaches on the Diveagar - Srivardhan Road, completely uninhabited, with long clean stretches of sand as far as the eye can see.

...

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Peace and Tranquillity (Panchgani, Dist - Satara, Maharashtra)
Slow Down (Sifnos, Greece)

Tempest

Outside, a storm brews.

.

Gusts of wind blown across the Arabian Sea strike land,
Channeled by the geography of the Western Ghats,
Into nooks and crannies of the Sahyadri range,

Leaving no place for petty civilization to run or hide
Save for hutments of stone and lowly earth.

.

Like the Gods themselves blowing with all their might,
The gale brings forth rain and hail,
Freezing every living being to the bone.

.

Bhosegaon, off Panchgani, is one such nook.

Perennially engulfed in fog by the clouds funneled in,
With trees bent backward shorne of leaves, thrashing wildly about,

Buffeted by the very nature that created them,
Tugging at their roots, begging to be set free.

....

Inside, calm prevails.

.

Quietly curled up in woolens and warm blankets,
They stare at the grayness through the glass, eyes wide in wonder.

How two points in space, separated only by a few inches of wall,
Can have such different fates.

.

As branches snap and disappear into the distance,
And howling winds search for the elusive gap between door and frame, whistling their way in,

They huddle around a bowl of warm steaming Maggi,
Lost within themselves, enjoying the small pleasures of life.

Like a day spent lazing around, indoors,
Waiting, for a storm to pass...

....

Panchgani, Dist. - Satara, MH
19.09.16

...

Panchgani is a famous hill station in the Satara district of Maharashtra, approximately 285 km (or six hours drive) from Mumbai and 100 km (or two hours drive) from Pune. 

Situated at an elevation of 4,200 ft and named after five villages in its vicinity, it is a popular weekend destination due to its cooler climate in the monsoon months of June to September, and winter months of November to February. 

It is easily accessible by car or cab, and is also well serviced by popular luxury bus lines as well as state transport buses. Accommodation options include numerous hotels, resorts and home-stays. 

Tip: It is advisable to make reservations a couple of weeks to a month in advance, if travelling on popular weekends of the monsoon or winter season. Some facilities may be sold out.

Tip: Panchgani is an ideal location for the weekend, given the weather, view and the number of hotels, if you plan to run the Satara Hill Half Marathon, held every year mid-September at Satara city, 45 km away. Most facilities at Satara and Kaas Valley will be sold out on this weekend. It takes an hour and fifteen minutes to drive down to the Start/Finish line for the marathon.

We were at Exotic Homestay - Panchgani, off the Panchgani - Mahabaleshwar road, situated above Dhom Lake. The delightful caretaker family drummed up delicious Maharashtrian meals and made our trip truly memorable.

Youth, Innocence and the Anachronism of Monday Mornings

Two Greek school kids at the corner of Kipselis Street and Zakynthou,
With their pot-bellied father, awaiting the school bus.

.

Excitement and energy writ large upon their faces,
As they jump around and play with each other, a fun start to a new week.

.

The boy pours out water from his bottle, and wets his hair to spike it,
Then pours out some more and sprays his sister.

.

They shout in joy, as their friends emerge from the neighbouring apartment block,
Two's company, four is a reunion, after a long weekend break.

...

In the distance, their father spots the bus,
And holds his arm out to flag it down.

.

The kids squeal, their happiness unbounded,
as they playfully push and shove each other out of the way,
in a bid to line up first and get the best seat.

.

They wave their parents farewell from the windows.
Youthful exuberance rubs off into the smiles on the parents' faces,
and on the face of a boy watching from two floors up, across the street.

...

Monday
16.05.16
Athens, GR

..

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Act III, Scene VII - Slowdown
Act III, Scene VI - Peace

Slow Down

Slow down.
Let the next bus go, there will always be another.

..

Sit in the sun for a while, let its warmth wash over you, driving the cold away,
Spreading slowly from torso to tip-toe, like a glass of red vintage wine.

..

Watch the yacht lazily make its way across the horizon, gently rolling across the waves,
Its wake, a serpentine white streak across magnificent blue.

..

Let the waves wash over your feet, visible in the pristine clear water,
Sand streaming away with the tide.

..

Let time make its way around the clock, like the sun crawling across the summer sky,
Bright at dawn, with dusk late into the night.

..

Let the pillars stand silent, sentinels of centuries past.
Each sunrise and sunset like a wave crashing over rocks on the sandy shore,
Polished to fine sheen, wave after wave, standing firm, unmoved.

..

Let the village life take over, in a secluded cove on an island in Greece,
Away from the alarms, deadlines and time-tables of the city.

..

Feel the cool Mediterranean breeze across the vast blue sea and plunging cliffs,
Framed by clouds floating by, playing with your imagination as animals dancing in the sky.

..

Hear the sounds all around you, the gulls above, sparrows chirping,
Mountain goats on a rocky outcrop.

..

Slow down, and let nature have its way...

.....

Kastro, Sifnos, GR
19.05.16

..

Sifnos is one of the lesser known but extremely beautiful Cycladic islands in Greece. Quiet, laid back and peaceful, lined with white washed, blue roofed houses, it is frequented by tourists seeking a break from architectural wonders and party-hotspots.

Sifnos is reachable only by boat, and serviced daily in the summer by all popular ferry lines, from the port of Athens (about 2.5 hours away) For moving around on the island, you may rent a scooter or a car from the port of Kamares, or use the bus. 

Accomodation options include wonderful homestays owned and managed by local residents. We stayed at Aegean Eye Rooms, Kastro, in a warm cozy room on a cliff, with a view of waves washing ashore right beneath our balcony, hosted by the very gracious and helpful Aristidis. All reservations on our trip via Airbnb.

Don't miss the numerous treks which dot the island of Sifnos, and connect the various beaches and villages, cutting across hills and along narrow cliffside paths, offering views of blue sea and sky which leave you awestruck. All treks are plotted on maps at all villages, and are well marked with signposts and arrows at regular intervals.  

Tip: The larger faster boat of Aegean Speed Lines (Athens to Sifnos) turned out to be our best ferry experience of the trip, with minimal gyrations. Seajets services the island with a smaller boat (which we used for our onward journey, Sifnos to Ios, and was a little uncomfortable) Hellenic Seaways and Zante Ferries are the other ferry lines servicing Sifnos with larger boats.

Tip: Most beaches and villages are frequented by the bus only twice a day, from the central villages of Apollonia, so ensure you check out the bus time-table on alighting the ferry at Kamares. Sunday timings differ from the rest of the week.

Tip: If you happen to miss the bus, you can always walk. All villages are an hour or two away from Apollonia on foot, and you may stumble across or meet someone amazing on the way (we found a Pottery studio, an organic farm and a sweet smelling home-made jam store)  

..

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- The Last Ball
- Peace and Tranquillity

Peace and Tranquillity

You wake up with a start, in darkness.

The room, the air, your head abuzz with the sound of a million crickets, their loud persistent chirping, through the mosquito-net-lined door.

You glance around in all directions, trying to discern your surroundings, lost for a moment, with the incessant crickets and their drum-roll playing havoc with your mind.

...

All  of a sudden, the noise subsides to complete and utter silence.

A coordinated orchestra ending its symphony to the conductor's closed fist, the noisy and boisterous Wankhede Stadium suddenly silent at the fall of Sachin's wicket.

In the vacuum that presses in on your ears, the absence of sound whatsoever, you remember how you got here.

...

You remember the beautiful monsoon drive along the rolling green Sahyadri hills; the breathtaking views off the cliffs of the Western Ghats, as you climbed higher and higher into the clouds.

You remember the photos and selfies, perched awkwardly on a rocky outcrop on a dangerous curve along the ghat, praying the car doesn't roll away; while vehicles barely visible to the naked eye crawl up the narrow winding road you just traversed, snaking across the face of the mountain.

You remember the hot steaming bowl of rice in a wood panelled rustic restaurant, facing a lake nestled between the mountaintops.

...

As you move groggily towards the door, trying to regain your bearings, and stare at the moonlit sky outside; as you hear your own breath in the silence that surrounds you, it all comes back like a sudden rush of colour into a black and white painting.

You remember pulling off the highway, onto a bumpy tree-lined country lane, forest stretching out on both sides as far as the eye can see; passing beautiful quaint bungalows, weekend homes of the rich and famous, while the fog rolls in and envelops you, hiding the lake from view.

You remember heaving your bags into a home-stay, your abode for the long weekend, anxious moments locating the caretaker, and finally falling flat on the inviting bed, crawling under the covers and drifting off to the gentle pitter-patter of drizzling rain on the sloped wooden roof.

...

You stare blankly at your watch, wondering how you slept through an entire evening, amazed at the peace and tranquillity of your surroundings, the smell of rain soaked earth and vegetation, the sound of leaves rustling quietly in the breeze. 

The crickets pull you out of your reverie. Just as suddenly as it had fallen silent, the orchestra resumes.

...

Panchgani, Dist - Satara, MH

16.09.2016

...

Panchgani is a famous hill station in the Satara district of Maharashtra, approximately 285 km (or six hours drive) from Mumbai and 100 km (or two hours drive) from Pune. 

Situated at an elevation of 4,200 ft and named after five villages in its vicinity, it is a popular weekend destination due to its cooler climate in the monsoon months of June to September, and winter months of November to February. 

It is easily accessible by car or cab, and is also well serviced by popular luxury bus lines as well as state transport buses. Accommodation options include numerous hotels, resorts and home-stays. 

Tip: It is advisable to make reservations a couple of weeks to a month in advance, if travelling on popular weekends of the monsoon or winter season. Some facilities may be sold out.

Tip: Panchgani is an ideal location for the weekend, given the weather, view and the number of hotels, if you plan to run the Satara Hill Half Marathon, held every year mid-September at Satara city, 45 km away. Most facilities at Satara and Kaas Valley will be sold out on this weekend. It takes an hour and fifteen minutes to drive down to the Start/Finish line for the marathon.

We were at Exotic Homestay - Panchgani, off the Panchgani - Mahabaleshwar road, situated above Dhom Lake. The delightful caretaker family drummed up delicious Maharashtrian meals and made our trip truly memorable.