Dusk

Dusk turns to darkness, as they frantically navigate narrow village lanes, driving past thatched roofs of a centuries old settlement, twinkling with lights and lanterns at each door.

Their drive so far has been bumpy and uneventful, punctuated only by the cries of children and adults alike, turning a full 180 degrees to stop and stare.

"Arre, gaadi varti cycle bagh!" ("Hey, look at the cycle on the car!")

...

With one eye on the sky, darkening by the minute, the west still lit with disappearing hues of blue and grey, and the other on the barely discernible road, they forge on, through the maze of criss - cross paths.

They stop and ask for directions, guided only by a name and some rudimentary instructions, hoping and praying for even a vague sign of recognition by one of the locals, but to no avail.

The villagers' faces remain blank, as they stare into the distance and ponder for a few moments, before pointing to the next intersection.

"Pudhe vicharun bagha.." ("Try asking ahead..")

...

The gathering gloom in the air and in their hearts reduces visibility to a few metres. Their hopes of discovering the home-stay start to fade with the last rays of the sun.

As they round the next corner and turn west, while contemplating the search for alternate accomodation, the lane opens out to a huge imposing silhouette.

Two large domes, stark black against dark grey sky preparing for slumber, rise out of the ground, a man made pool framed by tall gangly coconut fronds, guards around a perimeter fence.

They switch off the engine, in deference to the ancient stone structure before them, captivated by the silence and peace. Her voice, a whisper, yet so clear in the surrounding vacuum.

"Hi kuthli zaaga aahe?" ("What place is this?")

...

They alight and tip toe around quietly, soaking in the serenity. A path on one side leads to the beach, a sign, barely visible at this time of night, looms ahead.

From what seems like a afar, a voice calls out to them, welcoming, friendly. The giant of a temple awakens and casts a cursory glance at the new presence. He welcomes the new tourists to his humble abode.

"Pochlo aapan.." ("We've reached..")

...

29.10.16
Diveagar, Dist - Raigad, MH

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Diveagar is a small fishing village in Raigad District of coastal Maharashtra, approximately 180 km or 5 hours drive from Mumbai. Surrounded by the fishing hamlets of Velas Agar and Bharadkhol, it is ideal for a quiet long weekend away from the city in the months of October to March.

Peaceful and sparsely populated, it is accessible from the Mumbai - Goa Highway, via Mangaon, and features several home-stays and small hotels for accommodation.

We made reservations via Airbnb and stayed at Chet's Groove, a beautiful home-stay with a hammock located in a coconut grove by the beach. The care-taker family is extremely nice and welcoming, and drums up the most delicious Maharashtrian style fish-food.

Tip: For an even more peaceful experience away from other tourists, head to the Kondvil and Aaravi beaches on the Diveagar - Srivardhan Road, completely uninhabited, with long clean stretches of sand as far as the eye can see.

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Peace and Tranquillity (Panchgani, Dist - Satara, Maharashtra)
Slow Down (Sifnos, Greece)

Slow Down

Slow down.
Let the next bus go, there will always be another.

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Sit in the sun for a while, let its warmth wash over you, driving the cold away,
Spreading slowly from torso to tip-toe, like a glass of red vintage wine.

..

Watch the yacht lazily make its way across the horizon, gently rolling across the waves,
Its wake, a serpentine white streak across magnificent blue.

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Let the waves wash over your feet, visible in the pristine clear water,
Sand streaming away with the tide.

..

Let time make its way around the clock, like the sun crawling across the summer sky,
Bright at dawn, with dusk late into the night.

..

Let the pillars stand silent, sentinels of centuries past.
Each sunrise and sunset like a wave crashing over rocks on the sandy shore,
Polished to fine sheen, wave after wave, standing firm, unmoved.

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Let the village life take over, in a secluded cove on an island in Greece,
Away from the alarms, deadlines and time-tables of the city.

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Feel the cool Mediterranean breeze across the vast blue sea and plunging cliffs,
Framed by clouds floating by, playing with your imagination as animals dancing in the sky.

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Hear the sounds all around you, the gulls above, sparrows chirping,
Mountain goats on a rocky outcrop.

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Slow down, and let nature have its way...

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Kastro, Sifnos, GR
19.05.16

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Sifnos is one of the lesser known but extremely beautiful Cycladic islands in Greece. Quiet, laid back and peaceful, lined with white washed, blue roofed houses, it is frequented by tourists seeking a break from architectural wonders and party-hotspots.

Sifnos is reachable only by boat, and serviced daily in the summer by all popular ferry lines, from the port of Athens (about 2.5 hours away) For moving around on the island, you may rent a scooter or a car from the port of Kamares, or use the bus. 

Accomodation options include wonderful homestays owned and managed by local residents. We stayed at Aegean Eye Rooms, Kastro, in a warm cozy room on a cliff, with a view of waves washing ashore right beneath our balcony, hosted by the very gracious and helpful Aristidis. All reservations on our trip via Airbnb.

Don't miss the numerous treks which dot the island of Sifnos, and connect the various beaches and villages, cutting across hills and along narrow cliffside paths, offering views of blue sea and sky which leave you awestruck. All treks are plotted on maps at all villages, and are well marked with signposts and arrows at regular intervals.  

Tip: The larger faster boat of Aegean Speed Lines (Athens to Sifnos) turned out to be our best ferry experience of the trip, with minimal gyrations. Seajets services the island with a smaller boat (which we used for our onward journey, Sifnos to Ios, and was a little uncomfortable) Hellenic Seaways and Zante Ferries are the other ferry lines servicing Sifnos with larger boats.

Tip: Most beaches and villages are frequented by the bus only twice a day, from the central villages of Apollonia, so ensure you check out the bus time-table on alighting the ferry at Kamares. Sunday timings differ from the rest of the week.

Tip: If you happen to miss the bus, you can always walk. All villages are an hour or two away from Apollonia on foot, and you may stumble across or meet someone amazing on the way (we found a Pottery studio, an organic farm and a sweet smelling home-made jam store)  

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- The Last Ball
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