Dusk turns to darkness, as they frantically navigate narrow village lanes, driving past thatched roofs of a centuries old settlement, twinkling with lights and lanterns at each door.
Their drive so far has been bumpy and uneventful, punctuated only by the cries of children and adults alike, turning a full 180 degrees to stop and stare.
"Arre, gaadi varti cycle bagh!" ("Hey, look at the cycle on the car!")
...
With one eye on the sky, darkening by the minute, the west still lit with disappearing hues of blue and grey, and the other on the barely discernible road, they forge on, through the maze of criss - cross paths.
They stop and ask for directions, guided only by a name and some rudimentary instructions, hoping and praying for even a vague sign of recognition by one of the locals, but to no avail.
The villagers' faces remain blank, as they stare into the distance and ponder for a few moments, before pointing to the next intersection.
"Pudhe vicharun bagha.." ("Try asking ahead..")
...
The gathering gloom in the air and in their hearts reduces visibility to a few metres. Their hopes of discovering the home-stay start to fade with the last rays of the sun.
As they round the next corner and turn west, while contemplating the search for alternate accomodation, the lane opens out to a huge imposing silhouette.
Two large domes, stark black against dark grey sky preparing for slumber, rise out of the ground, a man made pool framed by tall gangly coconut fronds, guards around a perimeter fence.
They switch off the engine, in deference to the ancient stone structure before them, captivated by the silence and peace. Her voice, a whisper, yet so clear in the surrounding vacuum.
"Hi kuthli zaaga aahe?" ("What place is this?")
...
They alight and tip toe around quietly, soaking in the serenity. A path on one side leads to the beach, a sign, barely visible at this time of night, looms ahead.
From what seems like a afar, a voice calls out to them, welcoming, friendly. The giant of a temple awakens and casts a cursory glance at the new presence. He welcomes the new tourists to his humble abode.
"Pochlo aapan.." ("We've reached..")
...
29.10.16
Diveagar, Dist - Raigad, MH
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Diveagar is a small fishing village in Raigad District of coastal Maharashtra, approximately 180 km or 5 hours drive from Mumbai. Surrounded by the fishing hamlets of Velas Agar and Bharadkhol, it is ideal for a quiet long weekend away from the city in the months of October to March.
Peaceful and sparsely populated, it is accessible from the Mumbai - Goa Highway, via Mangaon, and features several home-stays and small hotels for accommodation.
We made reservations via Airbnb and stayed at Chet's Groove, a beautiful home-stay with a hammock located in a coconut grove by the beach. The care-taker family is extremely nice and welcoming, and drums up the most delicious Maharashtrian style fish-food.
Tip: For an even more peaceful experience away from other tourists, head to the Kondvil and Aaravi beaches on the Diveagar - Srivardhan Road, completely uninhabited, with long clean stretches of sand as far as the eye can see.
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